Walks in Le Marche

We love the range of walks around Le Marche and we’ve been thinking about getting a rescue dog since we first moved here 2 years ago, but in the meantime I’m lucky enough to have a good friend living nearby who has 2 very enthusiastic dogs that like nothing more than to go on long exploratory walks.

The lovely thing about this part of the world is the range of terrain over such a small area. There’s the coast – flat as a pancake, with wide open sandy beaches which are especially appealing out of season.

Porto San Giorgio
Porto San Giorgio in the winter

There are the rolling hills between the mountains and the coast, and the actual mountains themselves. There are numerous lakes too, typically up in the mountains, which are wonderful all year round. Great for bird watching and for escaping the summer heat.

Lago di Fiastra
Lago di Fiastra in September

On most walks – especially further inland – you’re likely to come across old, crumbling, abandoned houses and barns, all in various states of disrepair. I remember taking so many of these in when we were first house hunting all those years ago, and they still hold a fascination now.

On a recent walk near the village of Gualdo, we came across a huge abandoned water mill. Set – unsurprisingly – next to a small river and with no visible habitable houses around it, it was both magical and slightly foreboding. With no obvious way of getting inside, which of course we were desperate to do, we had to make do with a squint through the huge keyhole and a thorough stomp around the outside, peeking through gaps in doorways wherever possible.

River in Le Marche
River by the abandoned water mill
Abandoned mill in Le Marche
Part of the water mill
Looking through the keyhole of an abandoned mill
Peeking through the keyhole to get a look inside
1799 graffiti
Graffiti from 1799 on the mill door
I love imagining what these old derelict places were like before they were abandoned, and what they could be like if someone came along and gave them some love. We thought the mill could be a fabulous wedding venue, with wonderful outside spaces set up near the river, the sound of gushing water and the complete sense of privacy and relaxation. Hopefully someone out there wants to give it a new lease of life soon.

Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil

green tomatoes preserved in oil

We had phase one of the landscaping completed around the house last summer, but it wasn’t until late July that we had the first veggie bed in place, ready to be planted. Granted, it’s pretty late for a lot of summer vegetables, but with the heat of the summer I thought it was still worth a go.

No Italian orto is complete with a glut of tomatoes growing in it, so I planted a mix of San Marzano and Tonda di Mensa. Whilst some of them did ripe (and believe it or not, are still ripening even now), I have kilos of unripened green tomatoes just sitting there.

Not one to waste any food, ever (especially home-grown), after a chat with our lovely friend Giovanni, he passed on his wife’s recipe for preserved green tomatoes, along with a jar she’d made to sample. Upon opening them and taking the first mouthful, both Mike and I were hooked. They’d do well as an antipasto with fresh pecorino cheese, but I think they’d also work well with fatty meat like lamb chops, or even as a condiment to a good homemade burger.

I’ve already made one batch with 2kg of toms, and I’m now part-way through another slightly larger batch that will keep us happy throughout winter and early spring and do well for the odd Xmas gift for local friends.

It’s a dead simple recipe – all you need is a little time.

Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil Recipe

Ingredients
2kg of green tomatoes
Fine salt
250ml white vinegar
250ml water
4-5 cloves of garlic
2-3 fresh red chillies
2-3 teaspoons of dried oregano
750ml olive oil, plus a little more for topping up the jars

Wash and finely slice the green tomatoes and layer them in a large bowl with a sprinkling of fine salt in between each layer.

green tomatoes
Push them down with a large plate on top and something to weigh them down. Leave them in a cool, dark place for 24hrs.
weigh down the green tomatoes
Drain all of the bitter juice that’s been extracted from the toms – you can also squish them somewhat with your hands to get any excess juice out. Pat them dry with a clean tea towel and then pop them back into a large, clean bowl – once again in layers. Mix together the 250ml each of white vinegar and water and pour this over the tomatoes, ensuring they’re all covered. Pop the plate and weight back on them and leave them for another 24hrs.
sliced green tomatoes
Drain the tomatoes and, once again, squish any excess liquid out with your hands. Pop them into a clean, dry bowl and add in the chopped garlic, red chillies, oregano and the 750ml of olive oil. Mix thoroughly and let it sit at room temperature for approx. 3hrs so the flavours get to know one another.
green tomatoes with chilli
Sterilise your jars (I filled 6 x 550ml jars, to give you an idea of volume), and then whilst the jars are still warm, pop the tomatoes in, packing them in tightly and leaving around 2-3cm at the top. Lastly, top up the tomatoes with a little extra olive oil so they’re fully covered by around 1cm and them pop the lid on tightly.
green tomatoes preserved in oil
Store them either in the fridge or a cool/dark room or garage. They’re ready to eat 2 weeks after jarring, will keep for 6 months, but eat within a week or two once the jar is opened.

Food Festivals in Italy

Italian summer food festivals

June here in Le Marche sees the start of the summer sagra/food festival season, where all the village and towns around here celebrate all that is great about their local food and produce.

Each sagra is slightly different, and can go on for one, two, or even three nights. They typically focus on one key dish, but then offer a whole range of local food on top of that. Typical sagras are pizza and beer, parpadelle pasta with hare, fresh water crayfish, gnocchi, vincisgrassi and tortellini.

Italian summer food festival kitchen
The serious business of cooking

Village centres are decorated, stages are set up for live music and dancing, and the all-important benches and tables are set out, where everyone sits and eats together. There’s a menu displayed and then some queuing (a favourite pastime of us Brits) to order your food and drink, when you pay and get your receipts (a favourite pastime of Italians). You then queue up again at another hut or stand, hand your receipt over and get given various plates of seriously delicious food.

Then it’s time to find a free spot on a table to share with the village locals, and eat. Considering the sheer scale that even the smallest of sagras has to cater for – all with local volunteers, including young children who seem to relish the responsibility – the food is without fail, top notch.

Italian food festival
Tortellini, Olive Ascolane, lamb spiedini

Our little village of Sant’Angelo in Pontano here in Le Marche had a tortellini sagra, and it was an absolute blast. Everyone was out; children of all ages, old folk, plumbers, doctors, cooks, teachers, ex-pats, holiday makers. There was a live band that produced what can only be described as a flock of middle-aged locals deftly doing the foxtrot and quick step, and then seamlessly (apparently without any discussion among the 40-50 people dancing) moving into a line dance when the music tempo changed.

Dancing at an Italian food festival
The foxtrot

If you’re thinking about heading to here on holiday, look out for the posters on the side of the roads that tell you which sagra is where and when. We’ll also do our best to keep an up-to-date list available for our guests.

Wherever you are in Italy, they’ll definitely be a sagra near you, and there’s no better way to get a real insight into village life and the love of local food.

A word of warning: make sure you go to a sagra with a serious appetite. You won’t be disappointed.